Travels with a donkey in the Cevennes by Robert Louis Stevenson

(6 User reviews)   831
By Nancy Miller Posted on Feb 5, 2026
In Category - Oral History
Stevenson, Robert Louis, 1850-1894 Stevenson, Robert Louis, 1850-1894
English
Ever feel like you need to get away from it all? In 1878, Robert Louis Stevenson felt exactly that. His solution? A 12-day, 120-mile solo hike through the rugged mountains of southern France. But he wasn't entirely alone. His companion was Modestine, a stubborn, small, and endlessly patient donkey he bought for the journey. This book is the story of that trip. It’s not about grand battles or solving a crime. The main conflict is far more relatable: a man versus the road, the weather, his own inexperience, and the will of a donkey who has her own ideas about pace and direction. It’s about the quiet struggle of putting one foot in front of the other, finding a place to sleep under the stars, and the strange, brief friendships you make when you’re a stranger passing through. Stevenson writes with such warmth and humor about his misadventures—from his terrible packing job to his ongoing negotiations with Modestine—that you feel like you’re right there with him, feeling every blister and sharing every stunning view. If you’ve ever dreamed of just walking away from your routine, this is the classic that started the modern travel writing genre.
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Let's be clear from the start: this is not a plot-heavy adventure novel. The 'story' is wonderfully simple. In 1878, a young Robert Louis Stevenson, not yet famous for Treasure Island or Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, sets off on a walking tour through the Cevennes mountains. He buys a donkey, Modestine, to carry his gear, which includes a ridiculous sleeping sack he designed himself (it was, by his own account, a failure). For nearly two weeks, they traverse forests, cross rivers, and climb hills. He spends nights in remote monasteries, rough inns, and out in the open air. Along the way, he meets farmers, monks, and locals, sharing meals and conversations. The heart of the narrative is the evolving relationship between the man and his donkey—a partnership built on frustration, patience, and a growing mutual respect.

Why You Should Read It

You should read this because it’s the most charming and human account of a trip gone… not wrong, but authentically right. Stevenson’s voice is incredible. He’s funny, self-deprecating, and incredibly observant. He doesn’t pretend to be a heroic explorer. He gets lost, he gets sore, and he spends an absurd amount of time trying to motivate a donkey with a switch and a goad. His descriptions of the French countryside are so vivid you can almost smell the pine trees and feel the chill of the mountain air. But more than the scenery, it’s about the mindset of travel. It captures that feeling of being unmoored from daily life, where your biggest concerns are food, shelter, and the next bend in the path. The book is a quiet meditation on solitude, simplicity, and the small joys discovered when you move slowly through the world.

Final Verdict

This book is a perfect, gentle escape. It’s for anyone who loves the idea of a long walk, appreciates dry wit, or enjoys classic literature that feels surprisingly modern and personal. It’s for aspiring travel writers, daydreamers, and anyone who needs a reminder that adventure doesn’t require a far-flung destination—sometimes it’s just a road, a pack, and a stubborn animal companion. If you like Bill Bryson’s humorous travelogues or the reflective pace of Thoreau, you’ll find a kindred spirit in Stevenson. Keep it on your shelf for when you need a literary breath of fresh mountain air.



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William Walker
1 year ago

To be perfectly clear, the arguments are well-supported by credible references. I couldn't put it down.

Susan Moore
4 months ago

This book was worth my time since the emotional weight of the story is balanced perfectly. Worth every second.

Aiden Johnson
1 year ago

After hearing about this author multiple times, it creates a vivid world that you simply do not want to leave. A true masterpiece.

Anthony Ramirez
1 year ago

To be perfectly clear, the emotional weight of the story is balanced perfectly. Truly inspiring.

Andrew King
1 year ago

Great read!

4.5
4.5 out of 5 (6 User reviews )

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